From newcastlecitybreaks.com
The Pumphouse
Address: Farm Road
Houghall
Durham
Tel: 01913869189
Less than a mile from Durham Centre, shrouded by trees on the Houghall Road, lies The Pumphouse This restaurant is one of the best at blending a mixture of classical and contemporary dishes to create the perfect dinning experience. Previously a Victorian waterworks, the pumphouse decor strengthen the overall reputation with snug seating, balcony tables and heated patio. This is definitely one of Durham leading lights in terms of places to dine and with the experience getting better and better every time I go I think it will stay at the top of the pile for along time.
Below is a review from the Journal Newspaper, Newcastle leading cultural paper. BE SPOILT FOR CHOICE
This time of year, as the days imperceptibly lengthen and the thermometer starts to creep back up into double figures, there is an air of quiet hopefulness.
I’m an optimistic sort of chap, tending to see the silver lining before the cloud. This position can be irritating for the Eeyores of the world but, my motto is “Let them keep the clouds, I’m happy where I am” and that was definitely the case the evening we went to The Pumphouse at Houghall, Durham.
The only clouds then were fluffy, moonlit ones, puffing gently across a starry sky as we walked across the pine-fringed car park to the welcoming glow of the restaurant. Peeping through the windows, I was surprised to see all the tables, bar one, occupied. It looked like the party had been in full swing for some time, as some people were already tucking into desserts.
At 7.15 pm I thought we were early birds, but it seems you have to get out before the six o’clock news if you want a table here on a Friday evening.
The staff were zipping about but had time to greet, take coats, point at the table, ask for drinks order and promise menus before zipping off again.
Seconds later the menus and wine list arrived and we settled to the business of choosing.
You may not realise this but I try very hard to order different dishes so you and I, dear reader, get some variety. The problem this evening was that I had forgotten to read the last few reviews and was struggling to recall exactly what I’d had.
However, one glance at the diversity of dishes on the menu was enough to reassure me that there was little risk of recent history repeating itself this evening.
The dilemma was which ones to have. Mussels with chorizo and tomato? Oysters? Roast baby quail? Spoilt for choice. I haven’t had scallops for a long time but the pressed terrine of chicken, confit duck, mushrooms, smoked Parma ham, spiced peach chutney and dressed leaves won my heart.
My companion was beguiled by the allure of the warm pear and Roquefort tart with rocket and Parmesan salad and avocado oil, and who can blame her? A glass of perfectly chilled Chenin blanc from the South Africa Stellenbosch vineyard helped us settle in.
Ignoring the soapy black olives and focusing on the crunchy bread, we dillied and dallied until our starters arrived. The cabaret of a restaurant is always entertaining. The fabulously theatrical setting of this one added to the pleasure of people watching. Huge chinks of mellowed sandstone rise majestically, arching beamwards to a crimson ceiling from which dangle two wonderfully intricate chandelier affairs. Cups of light spill over snowy table linen and sparkling silverware. It fair takes your breath away.
The starters had much to compete with and, sadly, mine didn’t come up to scratch. The pale chicken, wrapped in paper thin ham had the taste and texture of a nugget - not the mineral sort. The promised flavours from the chutney was not kept and the second opinion supported my view that this was a character actor without character. Hers, on the other hand, was a triumph. A gently roasted pear, glazed with blue-speckled cheese, fanned across a crisp pastry shell. The chef had got the balance just right. The buttery pastry and salty cheese were kept in check by the sweet pear. The salad added crunch to make this a complete success. I had a consolatory glass of the Stellenbosch and moved on.
This time we both had five star dishes. Mine came in the form of Duck breast, cinnamon spiced cabbage, Fondant potato with cranberry and port reduction. It was fabulous. The duck was pink perfect with crispy skin and soft fat. The cabbage recipe, combining glossy burgundy slices with cinnamon and star anise created a sophisticated escort to the meat and rich foil to the smooth potato. Redcurrants dotted the port wine sauce and everything rolled along happily together and into history. My companion’s stars appeared in her Monkfish stuffed with asparagus and crab, wrapped in Parma ham, garlic thyme crushed potatoes, tomato and red pepper dressing.
It took as long for me to write it out as it did for her to eat. Medallions of lightly wrapped fish curled around a feathery crab filling. Tender, blanched asparagus spears lay criss-crossed to one side. A Generous serving of crushed, herby potato kept them company with the tomato-capsicum duo.
We were two very happy people as we headed for dessert.
Rum and raisin cheesecake with raspberry coulis for her and praline chocolate tart with Chantilly cream and white chocolate sauce for me. There was a touch of tactics in her choice because, unlike her, I am not a fan of the R & R combo. The heart shaped creamy mix, studded with tiny fruits, was delicious but the rum was a suggestion rather than a reality. The biscuit base gingered things up a little and she was happy.
My tart had crude blobs of white chocolate sauce trailed across it, but the deep delight of super-rich chocolate and hazelnut that lay beneath were the real attractions. A masterful delivery from the patisserie chef.
On the way home, after settling the bill of £77.50, the chauffeuse put a Billie Holiday CD on. I haven’t listened to her for some time and the warm glow of the food, wine and general bonhomie led, inevitably, to some bon reves.
The Journal Friday March 11, 2005
